SheBreathes™ | Fashion + Culture

Editor's Pick | Lulu Frost Spring/Summer 2011

Lulu Frost's S/S 2011 presentation at Milk Studios was filled-to-the-brim with elegant ladies who collect beautiful things while traveling. Designer Lisa Salzer dubbed the collection, Modern Pioneers — inspired by her travels across the northeast and Canada. The models were clad in vintage outfits, provided by Amarcord, and adorned with jewelry that was a mix of silver, turquoise and antique brooches. With the Native American head nickels, porcupine quills, pearl and bone necklace with bird pins being the toppers, all of which popped against the natural light. The scene wouldn't have been complete without weather-worn leather trunks revealing found objects and treasures, while the Storms played in the background. It was one of the best full scale presentations by a jewelry designer, thus why it's an editor's pick! But let me warn you now, below is nothing but arm, ear, hair, and neck candy!

All Fotos © SheBreathes except 3,4, 18 — Those are courtesy of Lulu Frost

The Master of Evenings | Tadashi Shoji Spring 2011

Inspired by 15th century renaissance artist Sandro Botticelli's famous painting, Primavera (Allegory of Spring), designer Tadashi Shoji transported the audience back in time with his Spring 2011 presentation. The room was filled with faux trees mimicking the famous Primavera, authentically conveying the feel of a forest. Statuesque models were clad in long silk chiffon champagne gowns and short tulle lavender evening dresses, that were handcrafted to perfection. Each strip of chiffon and tulle was tediously cut by hand — a testament to the unwavering dedication Tadashi puts into his masterpieces. There were signature elements that were visible, like layering, draping, and clusters of fabric bunched together. But these elements together were freshly reinterpreted, bringing a new perspective to his signature concept. Many of the dresses were one-shoulder or strapless accentuating the shoulders — all exuding elegance. Tadashi continues to evolve and challenge himself as an evening-wear designer, by improving his technique with each collection.

Fotos © SheBreathes

The Essentials | Julian Louie Spring 2011

Julian Louie Spring 2011 collection inspired by Peter Hugo's Hyena & Other Men, which explored how subjects in Hugo's photography wore traditional African garment and found pieces of American clothing. Louie explained that he wanted the clothes to be presented individually, which explains why he chose to present a second season at Milk in an installation format. The collection included expertly constructed separates like, the tassel-adorned asymmetrical silk satin skirt, crepe shirtdress topped with haircloth, and some beautiful layered dresses. Then there were the shoes — a collaborative effort with Aldo, that featured open-toe wedges in patchwork-suede and tribal-like patterns in ikat cotton, which we can only hope goes into production.

Fotos © SheBreathes

Body-con Nation | Katie Gallagher S/S 2011

Katie Gallagher's S/S 2011 collection was presented with models clad in body-con pieces standing on cinder-blocks, while rocking red eye make-up and slicked-back ponytails. The collection was filled with mesh paneling, leather, bondage, and leggings that looked like they were painted on. The pieces didn't veer far from her S/S 2010 collection, which is the only real complaint. With so many editorial ready pieces from all her collections, I was waiting to see where she'd go next. One thing Gallagher hasn't lost, is her ability to manipulate fabrics in a way that allows her skills to remain the focal point. There is no hiding behind fluff, even if the collection is reminiscent of past ones. I have no doubt that she'll continue to explore and define her aesthetic narrative, and as she does I'll remain along for the ride.

Fotos © SheBreathes

The Modernist | Frank Tell Spring 2011

Working with a mostly black, grey, and white colour palette, with a dash of mint and navy thrown in, Frank Tell's S/S 2011 collection marked the designer's first commercially viable set yet. The collection featured tailored pieces, like the croc-embossed leather jackets and grey suit. But the toppers were the stretch leather leggings and asymmetrical webbed-like knitted tops, and the cropped trousers, all of which kept Tell from veering from his youthful and edgy course. Tell managed to keep the working woman and the party girl in the same mix, which can only further his rise to the top. It didn't hurt that Raphael Young created the sculptural platform shoes and Pamela Love created the earrings and chunky rings, which made for a perfect mix of the emerging.

Fotos © SheBreathes

Eclectic Chic | Mara Hoffman Spring/Summer 2011

Its always a pleasure to get a designers insight into their collections before you try to dissect it. "I wanted to make a collection of things that I would personally wear," are the words of designer Mara Hoffman. The designer is known for her eclectic mix of vibrant prints and patterns. And she didn't stray from her roots for S/S 2011. Described as military gone native, the collection evoked an organic laid back vibe. Hoffman's goal was to create garments that were casual and wearable — which she succeeded superbly! Models donned comfy maxi dresses, rompers, and various separates with tribal-like patterns in an array of color combinations. All layered with slouchy knitted sweaters and straw berets. Budding footwear label Osborn complimented each look, by adding a continuous mash-up of pattern shoes.

Fotos © SheBreathes

CFDA Fashion Incubator | Jolibe S/S 2011

Sheer, lightweight, and ethereal all describe Dominican-born Joel Diaz's and his partner, Christina LaPen's latest delivery for S/S 2011, from their emerging label Jolibe. They continue to maintain their steady architectural aesthetic using almost weightless textiles, like silk cotton and organza mesh. Even the utilitarian vest constructed from recycled tent fabric, consistently rendered a light feel to the touch. Loose draping was another silhouette used commonly. Among the predominantly fluid collection, a metallic tailored suit provided a cohesive contrast to the collection. Elegant and edgy sums up the feel from this progressive label. We loved what we saw and continue to cheer them on!

Fotos © SheBreathes

CFDA Fashion Incubator | Subversive Jewelry S/S 2011

Subversive jewelry by designer Justin Giunta was another brand that showed their delectable goodies during CFDA's fashion incubator. We love several pieces from his S/S 2011 collection, like the small yellow and brown leather pouches drenched in chains and stones, chunky vintage pearl and chain necklaces, with the studded leather-metal statement piece being the toppers! Explore more above and below

Fotos © SheBreathes

CFDA Fashion Incubator | Alice Ritter S/S 2011

Our motto here at SheBreathes is to only support designer's we believe in, which is why we adored what designer Alice Ritter showed during the CFDA's fashion Incubator. While, she's not "new" to us, she's a designer on the verge of bursting! But what a quiet and beautiful storm she's creating. Nothing beats clothes that are well made that you want to wear everyday. There is always this cool girl with edge in her collections. Above and below is a peek into her S/S 2011 collection. Be sure to visit her space to explore more from her prior collections.

Fotos © SheBreathes

Christian Cota Fall 2010

I wanted to let you know that we are extremely late with uploading some of our favorite fashion week shows and presentations from New York to Paris, but we're slowly {it's taking longer than expected} adding them all over here, so take a peek.

Christian Cota was one of those collections that I liked. He presented the collection against a sea of models who looked like mannequins, which underscored the idea of what a presentation is — you are there for the clothes, not the models. The collection was inspired by cubism, which was paired with Cota's signature draping. Loads of mixing and matching of prints and mesh, which made for a surprisingly cohesive collection of clean lines and futuristic ideas. This is definitely a step in the right direction for an extremely talented designer, that I can't wait to see more from.

All Fotos © SheBreathes

Collection Three | The TwentyTen

Emerging label The TwentyTen, invited us to their Collection Three presentation, during New York Fashion Week. The dopest editorial assistant on earth, Ebony attended on our behalf. What she captured was a nice mix of pieces that push their design aesthetic forward. The sixteen piece collection, has a nice mix of shape and texture — mostly set against black. The label's designers, Jeff Dodd, David J. Krause, and Nina Zilka dipped into the avant-garde section, but it's not overly done. They managed to embrace the idea that New York is a commercial market, and to sell here one must give their customer something they can wear. And they do, as evident in their sharply tailored jackets and draped dresses. Visit them to see the collection in colour.

Some of my favourite pieces from the collection is the yarn dress, minis, and the faux fur pieces.

Fotos © SheBreathes

Frank Tell Fall 2010

I featured emerging designer Frank Tell last year, so of course when an invitation arrived to attend his Fall 2010 collection, I couldn't say no. I arrived rather late, thus why my vision into his intricately knitted and looped-out urban chic collection was skewed. None of this stopped me from feeling like Tell has hit a nice stride, one that had his skills on full display. The softly structured leather skirts and jackets were the cherry toppers, as was the pops of powder blue, mustard, and soft grey.

After it was all said and done, I stuck around chatting with friends, while the Frank Tell team packed-away their creations. Little did I know that the smart-looking young man sitting across from my friends and I, and listening intently to our conversation, was Tell's business partner. We banged-on about who we fancied, who we were disappointed in, and what aspects of Tell's collection we loved. He listened to every critique, every rave without ever interjecting. After introductions and hearing his vision for the brand, I had a deeper appreciation for the Frank Tell brand. It also reaffirmed why I champion the talented and hungry. Tell's Fall 2010 collection is brimming with possibilities and he's on the verge of a major breakout. The good thing is he has the talent to match the hype and accolades bestowed upon his designs.

Fotos © Shebreathes

My favourite pieces from the collection below:

Fotos Courtesy of Frank Tell.