SheBreathes™ | Fashion + Culture

DreamCatcher | Tatiana Arrigoni

The DreamCatcher Series is back and with our first Brasilian designer, Tatiana Arrigoni. Ms. Arrigoni is a jewelry designer, whose work I discovered while I was in Brasil during Rio Fashion Week. I've wanted for a very long time to introduce a Brasilian designer in this series and I'm very happy she obliged. Her work can be found in Vogue Brasil, Elle Brasil, and L'Officiel Brasil.So without further ado, I present Ms. Arrigoni.

Can you tell us a little about your background?

I graduated in industrial design, worked as an art director for 3 years in magazines, and as a hobby I started a jewelery class for 4 years. I loved it but I always thought the jewelery world too serious. I wanted to do bigger pieces, so I found brass and started working on brass instead of gold and silver. I began with creating and design runs a bit in the family. My great grandfather built some landmark building in São Paulo , the theater, the municipal market.

What inspired your most recent collection?

I have two lines. For the T.Arrigoni brand {my the main line} the inspiration was celebrations, such as love, luck, and magic. When I create I always choose a small theme to reflect in the pieces and link each piece to each other. My second line, Aselenas is a different line of creation. My inspiration lies in shapes of all kind — shapes of crystal, chains, and leaves. Out of this I create the pieces. The process is a bit more abstract than with T.Arrigoni, which has a more clearly defined theme.

Besides jewelry what else are you passionate about?

Family is always first. I also enjoy traveling. I like to discover new things to do, eat, see. And I love to visit supermarkets in other countries to check things out.

What's the hardest thing about creating a jewelry collection?

Waiting for the moment of inspiration. Creating unfortunately is not something mechanical, you cannot turn it on and off. Some themes and ideas just come to you, at times long before you have to come up with a collection.Then at other times, it only happens late in the race, its not a process you can force.

Who is you favourite Brasilian fashion designer, artist, and writer?

I love Lino Villaventura, the Campanas brothers, and while it may sound obvious as writer I choose Paulo Coelho.

At what moment did you feel you had succeeded since the launch of your label?

Succeeded is a big word, even up 'til today its a struggle. Being a small company, it's not easy to combine the business part — banking, shipping of orders, quality control, with the creative side of it. Give it some more time. Ask us again five years from now.

Do you have any plans to move beyond jewelry? And are you currently working on any collaborations that you'd like to share?

Decoration would be one of those areas, designing lamps, furniture. I had some very good intentions when I bought my house. I was going to take charge of designing lamps, however one year after we moved in, we are still waiting for the first draft. But as I said before you cannot force it. I did however design a shoe accessory for Swarovski. The first prototypes went back and forth to Austria and is now approved. This is something I'm looking forward to developing further in the near future.

What kind of woman wears T. Arrigoni?

A woman who is secure in herself, knows what she likes, and is feminine. I see this a lot in the family of my husband, he is from Belgium, a lot of people there love the pieces, but when it comes to wearing it they are hesitant. They opt for the safe choice, choosing something smaller, less eye catching. Maybe the T.Arrigoni woman takes more charge, buys and wears the pieces because they make her feel good about herself.

What advice would you give someone who wanted to become a jewelry designer?

Work very hard, dare to be different, don't be afraid to fall because ultimately one moment that will happen. But it all depends on how you deal with it.You have to believe in yourself, which is not always an easy thing to do.

What is a "DreamCatcher" to you?

First before you run after your dream, you need to have a dream, literally. That is exactly what happened when I gave up my work in magazines. If you will catch your dream depends a lot upon yourself. Hard work, overcoming day to day problems, and not giving up when things don't seem to be going the way you want it. Sometimes its good to stop and look at how far you have come. This helps you to understand where you want to go.

Many thanks to Tatiana Arrigoni for being a part of our DreamCatcher Series. We love your work and look forward to watching you create and grow.

Please visit http://www.tarrigoni.com.br for the stockist.

All Fotos Courtesy of Tatiana Arrigoni for usage on SheBreathes. All Rights Reserved.

DreamCatcher | Guillaume Hinfray

The DreamCatcher series is back and I couldn't be happier! We start the year off with a shoe couturier and true artist in the world of footwear, French designer Guillaume Hinfray. Mr. Hinfray was kind enough to give me a glimpse into his world. After featuring his work back in June of '09, I had to add him to the series. I hope you enjoy reading as much as I did gathering the answers.

Could you please tell us a little about your background?

My background is very traditional. I learned the sewing art both in the atelier fashion house and at the Haute Couture school, like Silk Taffeta, Grain de Poudre, needle and thread. But overall I have so much love for tailor-made dresses, sewed-up so many times, until you reach absolute perfection. Today I am proud of my background, because you need to find again the very essence of the beautiful things when the world around you is full of stylistic excess.

Where did you study or work on prior to debuting your eponymous collection?

At the very beginning I was an all rounder, what we call in French "touche a tout", Ready-to-wear, Jewelry, fragrances, make-up, interior design, handbags . . . everything. Then one day I started with shoes and found out it was the most difficult accessory to product and therefore the most exciting. And I never stopped. My own label was the natural outcome of this passion.

What inspires you?

It depends. Anything from an historical character to a tree bark. But there is always a common view, like my roots, the Normandy. This land is built with strong contrasts, landscapes, history, even human nature, and all of this creates a wild beauty. A very unique aesthetic.

Besides shoes what else are you passionate about?

The list would be too long, it's just life that gives me passion in so many ways. What really captures me is the work that requires time, passion, and devotion, as the illuminated manuscripts of medieval books. Easy things often don't have any flavour.

Who are you top three writers and top three painters?

Balzac, Carson McCullers, and Jonathan Coe, because even if they belong to three different ages, all of them have been able to trace in such a touching way the sweet, fragile and beautiful cruelty of human beings. For the painters, Giotto, Conrad Marca Relli, and Soulage, because of their extreme sense of light and texture, till the obsession.

What are you doing right at this moment?

I'm working on the next F/W '10 collection, that will be a new chapter, a turnover. I'm trying to go through a new path, looking for a new luxury vision, new codes, and I'm trying to this research with a cap in hand.

Do you have any plans to move beyond shoes and perhaps into handbags, or a ready-to-wear collection?

I will answer this in February when you will see the new collection.

 
 

Who is the Guillaume Hinfray Woman?

My first collection was inspired by Joan of Arc and still today I love this kind of warrior woman, who is so modern and free with ancient stylistic echos. I've always had a social committed woman in mind, who rules the world with extreme luxury and understated elegance.

What advice would you give someone who wanted to become a shoe designer?

Fly high, so high with your dreams, but always down to earth. At the end of the day we're cobbler artists and our mission is to create nice shoes to make a woman more beautiful and confident.

What is a "DreamCatcher" to you?

It's the life boost. We must pursue our dreams and try to catch them. The day we stop is when the world will not be interesting anymore.

All styles are from Guillaume Hinfray's S/S 2010 collection. Many thanks to Mr. Hinfray for his time, Roberta, and his assistant Marica. I look forward to the Fall 2010 collection, which will be shared on here in the next month or so!

Please visit http://www.guillaumehinfray.com to shop directly on his website and for stockist.

This Interview was translated from Italian to English by Roberta and DS De Carvalho.

Fotos Courtesy of Guillaume Hinfray for usage on SheBreathes. This interview may not be reproduced without permission.

DreamCatcher | Rei Ixbalamke

When I first shared Rei Ixbalamke's gorgeous collection of shoes back in April I knew I wanted her to be a part of the DreamCatcher's Series. Her ability to intertwine classic shapes with architectural-like details is something I admire. Her classic pumps with their beautiful plunging line or her booties with cut-outs and patent leather trimmings topped in white — all drool worthy and beyond the "it" factor. Rei Ixbalamke creates shoes that are investments. She's more than a designer to watch, she belongs in your closet.

Could you please tell us a little about yourself?

I graduated from Central St. Martins and Cordwainers College where I specialized in Footwear Design.

What's your design process like? Do you have a muse?

Every season while researching you build a new story and a new heroine emerges to become your muse. I think women are quite amazing and full of surprises, this is why they are able to inspire and become a "muse".

What inspires you beyond shoe design and fashion?

Traveling and not knowing what's next. Life is so much better than fiction.

If there was a soundtrack to your life thus far, which artists would be on it?

This would depend on how I feel on that particular day. I love music and the fact that can take you to places without even having to leave the room. I listen to everything from electro-pop to classical.

Do you have any plans to extend your brand beyond footwear?

Yes, once the time is right.

What do you think is the biggest misconception about shoe design?

That it's just a pair of heels.

 

Are you working on any collaborations right now?

I am developing a ready to wear line.

Tell me about your most memorable vacation{s}?

In West Africa the tro tro [a minibus] broke down in the middle of tropical forest. It took hours to get back on track but people always met you with a smile. Venice in November is my favorite place and it's like a movie set — very spooky at night. I have been going there since I was six. Ibiza is like a goody bag you never know what you will get and is always amazing, excessive and extreme.

What are your thoughts on the wildly repeated saying "Imitation is the highest form of flattery"?

I think is right and actually take it as a compliment.

Any advice for those who wish to enter the world of shoe design/fashion?

Lot's of hard work, perseverance and you have to love what you do.

What is your definition of a DreamCatcher?

Someone who is able to translate an inner thought into a real object or sensation, that can open a door for any person to experience the journey. I think artists, writers, musicians, and designers are prime examples of being exceptional dreamcatchers — Mozart, Alexander McQueen, Quentin Tarantino and so many more. 

 

All featured shoes are from IXBALAMKE'S A/W 09-10 collection.

Many thanks to Ms. Ixbalamke for allowing us a peek into her world and for being a part of the DreamCatcher Series. Also many thanks to her awesome PR person Luther — it's been a pleasure!

For more information on IXBALAMEKE please visit www.ixbalamke.com and to purchase from all her collections please visit the webstore.

All Fotos Courtesy of IXBALAMKE for usage on SheBreathes.

Discover | Moga e Mago

I discovered Berlin-based shoe designer Elisa Lindenberg of Moga e Mago on Styleclicker, which is one of my favourite style blogs because they actually give you snippets about the person they've captured. Not only did her photo capture me but I was immediately smitten with her flats, all of which are handmade in Berlin. If you look closely you'll see she doesn't use metal clasps to secure your feet in place, no she's far more creative than that. She prefers you wrap her hand-died colourful nappa leather around your sun-kissed ankles. Or place your feet in heaven by wearing her feathered beauties and tie to secure in place. How far up the leg do you want to go? Only your imagination can stop you. The other amazing thing about her collection is there is a bit of an architectural take with her silver sandals and one doesn't expect this with sandals. But then again Ms. Lindenberg doesn't just design and create sandals, no these are works of art that become part of your personality.

Elisa was also kind enough to indulge a few questions I had for her . . .

Tell us briefly a little about yourself?

I studied fashion design in Rome, Italy and I finished studies two years ago. I worked for aemkei in Berlin, which is an urban wear brand. I was also a stylist for film, music videos, and photo shoots. I've traveled to NYC, where I want to go back as soon as possible, and then later to Mexico to launch my first womens wear collection, and now my collection Moga e Mago in Berlin.

What is your inspiration?

My inspiration is my dreams. But I also get inspired by the people I see on the street and by nature.

Who are your favorite shoe designers?

I don´t have a favorite shoe designer because there are a lot. I don't like to follow a style but the ones that make the impossible happen on a shoe, or just the comfort and beauty in one, because shoes have to be comfortable.

What's your favourite movie of all time?

Baraka it´s a documentary and I love it also David Lynch movies are great too.

Many thanks to Elisa for the mini interview and sharing her summer sandal collection with us! We love it!

If you're interested in buying any of the shoes in her summer collection, please send Elisa an email at Elisa {at} mogaemago {dot} com with your shoe size. All shoes are priced between $90 — $150 dollars. If you're in Berlin you can find them at Shusta Rosenthaler Strasse 72, Berlin Mitte.

All fotos courtesy of Elisa Lindenberg of Moga e Mago for usage on SheBreathes.

DreamCatcher | Martha Davis

After featuring a few looks from shoe designer Martha Davis' S/S 09 collection, I knew she had to be added to the DreamCatcher Series. Not only is Ms. Davis creating drool-worthy shoes, she also brings years of experience from her industrial design background into each of her collections. So, it's with pleasure that I introduce you to Martha Davis, a designer who should be in your closet.

Ms. Davis could you please tell us a little about your background?

I have a BA in Sculpture, but got a job as an industrial designer right out of school. I'm kind of an artist/engineer geek — I love the combination of form and utility. I worked for a few design offices, then started my own firm in NYC, after three years. My clients spanned a wide range of industries, from cosmetic to furniture/lighting, electronics, and medical. I spent a fair amount of time in the operating room, working on endoscopic surgical devices. One of my more commercial designs is the Dialpak for J&J — a fascinating, ten year project that has saved billions of pounds of plastic, and made birth control accessible to millions of women {for more information click here}.

What is your design process?

What ever I am designing, I start with a lot of research to learn how it works, how its made, who uses it, where, and why. I also try to understand what's going on in the marketplace, what's interesting, and where the opportunity is. I look at materials and manufacturing processes — peripheral industries can be really interesting too. There is not a huge amount of innovation in the footwear industry so bringing in ideas from other places is important. After I get an idea of what I want to do, I sketch and make models. I learned to make paper patterns and models at Ars Sutoria and think it is super important. Once I narrow the ideas down, I use the computer to refine and visualize views, manipulate shapes, and apply colors.

The last step is prototyping and material selection, which I do with my factory in Venice. They have been making shoes for centuries and are astounding craftsmen. I learn endlessly from them and I'm constantly asking them to break the rules.

What kind of woman wears Martha Davis shoes?

Women that are confident and independent thinkers, love design, value quality and originality. What inspires you? Design that is so simple its clear there is no other way. Like a two penny nail or a canoe, or a pea pod — perfect.

Do you have any favourite designers?

This is a huge mashup: Achille Castiglione, Maison Martin Margiela, Luis Barragán, Deiter Rams, Vivienne Westwood, Noguchi, Neutra, Rei Kawakubo, Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, Maria Cornejo, Anne Demeulemeester, Harry Bertoia.

What's your advice for those who wish to become a shoe designer?

To design anything I think there's one basic principle — learn how it's made and used so you know how you can change it. I also believe that it's really important to learn how to draw.

What can we expect from Martha Davis in the future?

I saw a big problem finding cool, wearable shoes and now a problem finding bags and jackets to go with them. Maybe something to do with unusual jewelry at some point too.

Besides your beautiful shoes, what else are you passionate about?

My son and his music. Art, gardens, and hardware.

Do you have a favourite shoe from either the Spring/Summer or Fall/Winter 09 collection?

I wear the open toe booties from the Spring/Summer collection every single day, in every color. It is amazingly comfortable and warm. I live in San Francisco and it's freezing in the summer. I also love the booties and strappy heels from the Fall/Winter collection. I wear them with socks. 

Your favourite place to shop and your favourite city to spend a day in?

Metier and Harputs Market in San Francisco, Chinatown and Ted Meuling in NY, Orlandi in Milan, Vinçon in Barcelona, and any hardware store in the world. It's hard to pick one city, but I would have to say Rome, Tokyo and Buenos Aires.

What's your definition of a "DreamCatcher"?

I feel really strongly that if you have a passion, you need to follow it in whatever way or capacity possible. Sometimes the hardest part is finding it, but when you do, you will be successful because it is the real you. I feel incredibly privileged to be able to follow my dream. It took a lot of work and guts to do it.

All looks above are from Martha Davis' F/W 09 collection. Martha Davis is available at Metier in San Francisco, and online at Shopbop. Visit Martha Davis for complete stockist and to explore all her collections.

All fotos Courtesy of Martha Davis for usage on SheBreathes.

DreamCatcher | Deborah Lyons of Méchante of London

From the moment I featured Deborah Lyons' label Méchante of London,I knew her shoes would be a big hit with shoe lovers. Her attention to details and love of the craft is something I truly admire, so it's with pleasure that I include Ms. Lyons as part of the DreamCatcher Series.

Hi, Ms. Lyons, could you please tell us a little about your background? 

I was born and raised in London. I studied fine art in London, Paris, and Florence, before moving to NY to go to Parsons. At Parsons I studied fashion design and that’s where I learned shoe design too. As soon as I graduated I went back to Italy to the factories, and spent time learning the craft from the artisans themselves. Soon after I launched Méchante of London.

How was your experience at Parsons? And Did you receive any training from famed shoe design professor Howard Davis?

{Laughs} I didn’t but I know of him of course! I loved being at Parsons. It took me a while to get used to the fact that I actually had to go to class and couldn’t talk my way out of it. But I found it an extremely creative yet structured environment, which was exactly what I needed.  

What is your design process? 

It starts with fabric sourcing and then illustrations. I then put everything up on my wall, and normally end up bringing it all down a few times and start over. It could take me weeks but it usually has to be done in about 10 days, so I have to know my inspiration well in advance.

What inspires you?

Music, art, film, club-kids, travel, people, markets, fabrics.

Do you have any favourite designers?

Hussein Chalayan, Alexander McQueen, Pierre Hardy, Vivienne Westwood, and so many more.

What's your advice for those who wish to become a shoe designer?

Keep your costs as low as possible and your quality as high as possible.

What can we expect from Méchante of London in the future?

Higher heels, larger collections, maybe a collaboration, and some bags. 

Besides your beautiful shoes, what else are you passionate about? 

I love to paint, music definitely, passionate people, my family and friends.

Do you have any plans to expand into handbags or women's wear?

I have just launched jacket line Nonoo Lyons with a good friend for Fall. I don’t have any formal plans to expand Méchante just yet but I’ve got lots of ideas.

What's your definition of a "DreamCatcher"?

Funny I was having this conversation with a friend of mine who is a designer yesterday. I’m not sure if you ever can catch your dreams, because I think you have new ones all the time, but things would be really boring if you stopped the chase.

 

I'd like to thank Ms. Lyon's for her time and her awesome PR person Stephanie {People's Revolution}, for helping make this happen. Please visit Méchante of London to see more from her Spring and Fall '09 collections.

All fotos courtesy of Deborah Lyons/Méchante of London for usage on SheBreathes™.

Boutique Love | Inside Hala Vintage

Hala Vintage is a quaint hidden treasure tucked away in downtown Jersey City, NJ. Its possible to drive down 5th street and never take notice of this amazing boutique. Owner Hala Schlub delivers an exclusive curated selection of vintage that any fashion lover would adore! Open since 2000 Hala Vintage has garnered a steady following by established and emerging designers, stylists, and the general public. I was able to sit down and chat with Hala about her shop and her love of vintage!

Your originally from Louisiana. How did you end up in Jersey City?

Back in 2000 I moved to New York to pursue ballet. My first love has always been fashion, even as a young girl. Shortly after my arrival I quit dancing and began working as a visual merchandiser for a clothing store. I loved my job, but was laid off after September 11th. Finding a new job became extremely difficult, so I thought long and hard about what I really wanted to do. I thought to myself, well I really love vintage clothes and I've always wanted to start my own business so why not sell vintage clothes! That's kind of how things started.

Are there any specific era/s that you concentrate on carrying in the shop?

Usually the 1980's and earlier. Although I don't carry too much from the 80's and the few pieces I have are designer or have a very interesting visual appeal. Mostly 50's and 60's but as of lately I've been getting a lot of 40's which I love, absolutely one of my favorite decades.

How has the declining economic climate affected Hala Vintage?

The thing about a business like mine because of the location everything is pretty much word of mouth. My regular customers have sustained the business thus far, with a handful of newbies each year. Recently in my neighborhood I've witnessed so many businesses closing down, and sadly I never even had a chance to visit some. I'm very grateful for my customers, to still be thriving after 6 years is amazing!

Since opening Hala Vintage in 2002 do you feel that Vintage has become increasingly popular now vs. when you first started out?

Going green has become such a huge craze as well as the current economy, I feel people are more open to buying vintage. When I first opened, people from the neighborhood would come in looking perplexed because I was selling "used clothes". They genuinely had no idea what "vintage" was. Vintage has become very popular and trendy in the mainstream of fashion, which definitely is a plus for me.

Designers and Stylists are a large number of your clients. Being in such an unconventional location has not affected your reach with them?

Surprisingly I have never advertised my business to the trade at all. A lot of times stylists are filming TV shows or movies in the area and they find me online. Designers buy things for inspiration. They will buy pieces solely for a detail or because they like the fabric etc. I also sell at the Manhattan Vintage Show, and in the past Hell's Kitchen Market. I've garnered many long-lasting relationships from both.

What do you enjoy about selling vintage?

I really enjoy being my own boss. Its nice to watch my business grow and develop, I don't have the pressure of people telling me what to do. Its very organic and its doing something that I love. I'm passionate about vintage and I'm happy that I've yet to fall out of love with it. A lot of the pieces I find are from estate sales and have been kept in immaculate condition. People have held onto to these things for so long because they love them so much and can't imagine parting with them. That's what I enjoy the most about the brick and mortar store, seeing a customer find that one piece that they have to have and loving it just as much as the previous owner.

Are you ever weary of the growing competition in the vintage community?

You know I don’t ever feel competition with vintage, each store has something different. Some of my best friends own a vintage shop not too far from mines, and they’re success means so much to me. We both run our business very differently, but the one thing that we have in common is our love for the clothes. There's so much vintage still out there and its rare that you come across the same thing twice, so I think that’s why I don’t feel too competitive at all.

DreamCatchers | Be + Steve of Be&D

I've been a fan of Be&D for a while now, and they've been featured on SheBreathes before. So, it's my pleasure to add them to the DreamCatcher Series, as I find their collection of beautifully made handbags, shoes, and accessories lust worthy. While, I'm a bit late with adding this interview, I hope you enjoy getting to know the creative souls behind this awesome brand. So without further ado, I present the designers behind Be&D, Be and Steve.

L: Steve Dumain, R: Be Inthavong.

Be and Steve, could you please tell us a little about your background? 

Be: I was born in Laos. Then I moved to the States with my family and grew up in Dallas/Fort Worth area of Texas. Now, I am currently living in New York City. 

Steve: I grew up on a horse farm about 2 hours outside of NYC. Spent the majority of my childhood in the woods alone of with friends or just hugging some trees. I was drawing from the time I was 3 and was very good at portraits for years, and later transformed that into sculpture. Although I lived in the country, I had a natural affinity for NYC even though it scared me to death — because when I visited in the 80's as a kid, we would see some seriously scary things in Times Square. That's all gone now, but if you're really quiet, you can still hear this memory of New York hidden inside what now seems like a Disney version of New York. 

Since there are two of you, what is your design process?  

Be: Our design process is always evolving. We’ve done everything from mood boards, to reviewing our business on what’s selling, to just simply being inspired by the material and each other.

Steve: It depends on our mood. Sometimes Be comes to me with an idea and I expand on it or sometimes I begin the process and he helps me finish it. Even though we often find it difficult to agree in the early stages, we always agree on the end result, which is when our whole team knows we've hit something people will respond to.

You're relaunching the "Garbo" bag, which is one of your signature bags, how does it feel to have so many clamor for something you've created?  

Steve: It's been constantly exciting to see something we make cause so much excitement in women’s eyes. The craziest thing for us was to watch, was how much that design affected what was happening in fashion with hardware, and the look we started at a time when hardware had recently been evacuated from the business. It was like a computer virus for fashion. I'll never forget almost every day of our first 2 years of business as long as I live — and I'm pretty forgetful.

 

What inspires you both? 

Be: Being alive and being able to do something that I love. And of course my environment and dream inspires me too.

Steve: Live music. The women we love. My friends, great art, and my friends who make great art. The mountains, ocean, all beings in nature, an amazing meal, and people doing what they believe in — what is good not just for themselves but for others. 
 
Do you have any favourite designers?  

Steve: Right now Be and I are huge fans of our good friend Doo.Ri. We just did a collaboration together of special handbags and belts for her A/W 09 show. I've also always had great respect for a jewelry designer by the name of JAR — Joel Arthur Rosenthal. We met him in Paris on one of our first business trips there about 4 years ago. The first time he brought me into his studio to see his many masterpiece works, I honestly felt like I was watching an opera just looking at what he made. He is originally from the Bronx and moved to Paris at a very young age.  

Be: As Steve mentioned, I’m really moved by Doo.Ri’s work. I also love the beautiful fantasy of John Galliano.

What is your advice for those who wish to become luxury handbag/shoe designers?  

Be: Just focus on making special things that you believe in and never ever loose the detail of that.

Steve: Hold tight and follow your dreams with great strength. 

 

What can we expect from Be & D in the future? 

Steve: More draping, pinching, tucking, and showing leathers that we love. There should be a flagship store in the near future — when all the stars align.

Be: I’m very open to what the future holds. Perhaps travel bags

Besides your beautiful handbags and shoes, what else are you passionate about?  

Be: I am passionate about my native country Laos, and I am passionate about staying true to myself.

Steve: My best friend! A great artist named Joséphine Faure. I enjoy reading — I’m into a Murakami book right now. Live music, I saw Helloïse and the Savoir Faire 2 weeks ago, and traveling. Because of work, I'm spoiled and get to do a lot of it, even if it's tiring. I'm off to Paris for fashion week in a few days, and need to get to Spain and Italy soon. I miss them a lot and all the great food!

 
What's your definition of a "Dream Catcher"?  

Be: My definition of a dream catcher is someone who realizes anything is possible.

Steve: People’s eyes when they see and feel something beautiful,  it's as if they are seeing the world for the first time. There's almost a layer of shiny liquid over them that seems like they are crying.

I really enjoyed this interview with Be and Steve, and I thank them and their awesome PR person! Below is a glimpse into their A/W 09 collection, and it has me drooling!

Please visit Be & D for more information on their stockist, and to see more from all their collections.

All Fotos Courtesy of Be & D for usage on SheBreathes.

DreamCatcher | Max Osterweis of Suno

After recently featuring Suno and being smitten with the entire collection, I had to add the designer, Max Osterweis to the DreamCatcher's series! Not only is Mr. Osterweis creating beautiful clothes, he's got a wicked sense of humor, and has one of the coolest PR people I've ever dealt with. I'd like to thank them both for their time, and wish them continued success, because I'm a believer in the brand + vision. So, without further ado . . .

I've read that you spent 10 years collecting the beautiful vintage textiles we see in your debut collection, so was it during this time that you decided you'd create a collection with them?

I suppose I considered making something with the kangas when I first started collecting them, however, it was not clear to me what exactly I would make. I also did not have a pressing need to make anything with them. They were beautiful on their own and that was enough. However, over the years I had collected so many that it got to the point where I really had to do something with them, otherwise they were just taking up space - which, as you know in New York, is quite precious. I probably first thought about it 12 years ago, but did not seriously consider it until a year ago, and not until six months ago did I actually do something about it.

How does being a filmmaker shape what you design?

I'm not sure that being a filmmaker shapes what I design. It may, however, shape how I design. When conceiving a collection I think about character, story, and visual themes. I then think about how to express those elements through visual cues.

What inspires you?

A lot of things inspire me.

Do you have a favourite designer or filmmaker?

I do not have a favorite, but there are a lot of people whose work I hold in extremely high regard:

Filmmakers would include, but not be limited to: Pedro Almodovar, Federico Fellini, Akira Kurosawa, Emir Kusturica, Terence Malick, Woody Allen, Francis Ford Coppola, Stanley Kubrick, and Werner Herzog.

In Fashion: Martin Margiela, Consuela Castiglioni, Yves Saint Laurent, Jean Touitou, Rei Kawakubo, and Dries Van Noten.

Do you have any plans to expand Suno beyond women's wear, perhaps into accessories or menswear?

I would love to expand Suno into whatever other categories we can successfully produce. We are already doing a bit of experimenting.

 

Putting you totally on the spot, your top 3 films, and places to visit in Kenya?

Badlands, La Dolce Vita, and Annie Hall.  Home, the Peponi bar, and any place I haven't been before.

What advice would you give someone who wants to become a fashion designer or filmmaker?

Don't be afraid, don't be lazy, and don't be shy.

And since we're both a part of the NYU {New York University} family, tell me about your experience there?

I totally enjoyed it. I made friends and films, read some great books, and was living on my own in New York at 17 - what could be better?

What can we expect from Suno in the future?

You can expect to be surprised.

What is your definition of a "DreamCatcher"?

I'm not sure I have a definition for a dreamcatcher; I just know it's a beautiful thing.

For more information please visit Suno. The collection will be available at Opening Ceremony in early Spring. 

All fotos courtesy of Suno for usage on SheBreathes. Designer's photo © Sarah Elliott.

DreamCatcher | Jessie Hill

The DreamCatcher Series returns with Australian designer Jessie Hill, whose work I'm completely smitten with! She's such a cool person + was very generous with her time. I love that she decided to give us a glimpse into her world + a snippet of her A/W 09 collection dubbed "Women as Great Men".  I hope you enjoy, because there are several more that will be added to the series next week!

Could you please tell us a little bit about your background?

I started out as a wardrobe assistant for film and television when I was 16. I moved to LA with little money in the bank, and pleaded with my parents for their approval! I landed a job at MTV and worked as a stylist assistant for music videos. I later moved into editorial fashion for magazines such as Vogue and Harpers. I was approached by a British Label, Buddhist Punk, to style their London show, and six months later I was working as their head women's wear designer. My first collection showed at New York Fashion Week in 2005 — oh boy, it was a bit emperors new clothes.

I didn't quite know what I was doing back then, but I have certainly honed in on my strengths. My garments are well constructed and three dimensional now. One of the Designers at Buddhist Punk, Adam Entwisle {who graduated from Central Saint Martins}, taught me a lot about design development, research, and having the confidence to go out on my own. All of this lead me to start my own label in 2006.

What is your design process?

To be honest a lot of thinking and contemplation. I can't even begin to embark on a collection without a crystal clear vision and strong direction. I start collection with a series of pictures, photos, bit's of fabrics, and ribbons.

Who are your favourite designers?

Vivienne Westwood for her pure punk attitude! Ricardo Tisci for his dark sexy approach. Alexander McQueen for his high drama, and Emma Cook. There are just so many amazing designers.

What inspires you?

Music, Music, Music!

My collection always starts with a sound track, that triggers all those emotions that help you start building a collection. My friends are a huge inspiration also. I collaborate with artist friends — one being Elke Kramer, who works with me on my intricate prints and accessories for my runway shows. She is such a talented designer and when we work together it's magic! We made life size polished resin dolls hand belts for my last spring/summer show.

Do you have a favorite piece from any of your collections?

It would have to be the "Crazy Back Dress". Its has a multitude of bustles frill at the back, and It's a wonderfully seductive dress. Also the "Diamond Back Rattler Dress", named after my friend's band, it's covered with native bead embellishments in vibrant acid colors.

What kind of woman do you design for?

Left of center women who are risk takers and are looking for something completely unique. I like to think of myself as a transformer. Some of my clients sometimes say "Oh I'm not sure if I can pull this garment off" (as most of my clothes are very "bod-con" {body conscious}). But once they are in the garment they feel transformed, and confident to wear it.

Your advice to anyone wishing to become a fashion designer?

Get proper training. It will make the process a little easier, and work with a designer who you respect — learn as much as you can on the job!

Words you live by?

Expression, passion, intuition, drama, love, risk.

What can we expect from you in the future?

I want to do a runway show in both New York and London, I just have to convince my sponsors.

What is your definition of a "DreamCatcher" ?

Aside from owning one in the nineties. My analogy is that it's someone who wants to capture something, that may be abstract and out of reach, who turn it into a reality! Dreams are so important in this dark age. I believe they can surely happen if you have the right attitude.

Above are looks from the A/W 09 collection and below are looks from the S/S 09 collection.

Fotos Jessie Hill for usage on SheBreathes.

Visit Jessie Hill for more information on all her collections and stockist.

DreamCatchers: Eva + Rosa of Erva

Erva, has been featured on here before and I'm delighted to present Eva + Rosa, the designers behind the brand as part of the DreamCatchers Series. I admire their work and love the offbeat loveliness of their bags. Many thanks to both ladies for giving me a bit of their time. Enjoy.

Hi Eva and Rosa, can you please tell us a little about your background?

Eva studied Business Administration and I studied Fashion Design. We met working in a fashion company in Spain. She was in charge of women accessories and I worked in ready to wear.

Have you always wanted to design handbags?

No, it was the result of not finding fresh designs in quality leather we liked.

Since there are two of you, what is your design process?

Total chaos! We don't have any kind of process because everything is impulsive and spontaneous. It just feels right at the time.

Who are your favourite designers?

Alexander McQueen and Oliver Theysken are so creative, they're true artists. Rick Owens is genius and his influence in fashion today is never acknowledged enough.

What inspires you?

Music videos, arts, and crafts. The work of Susan Collins and Yoshihiro Suda. Flowers, cats, and leather.

Do you have a favourite bag from your collection?

I like "Garter", it's elastic closure is unusual and easy at the same time.

What advice would you give someone wanting to become a handbag designer?

Focus. Most people think of accessories in general. If you want to create bags you need to think of them as unique.

 

What can we expect from Erva in the future?

We'd love to expand our world but in an intimate way. Maybe just one or two shops, men's line, and a shoe collection in the same spirit as the bags.

What's your definition of a "DreamCatcher"?

A spiderweb full of dreams, that with the right desire you can bring them into walking life.

Please visit Erva to see more of their beautiful handbags and for stockist.

Fotos Courtesy of Erva for usage on SheBreathes.com. Please don't reproduce/repost/alter images or any part of this interview without permission. {c} 2008.

DreamCatcher: Terhi Pölkki

Recently spotlighted shoe designer Terhi Pölkki is the first designer in the DreamCatcher's Series. I'm so delighted that she's a part of this series as I admire her work and contributions as a shoe designer. So without further ado, I offer you a SheBreathes DreamCatcher, Terhi Pölkki

Can you please tell us a little about your background?

Originally from Finland, I graduated from Cordwainers at London College of Fashion in January 2008. I based my MA collection on my Heritage from the Northern country of Finland. The collection is made of ecological reindeer leather.

Have you always wanted to design shoes?

I wanted to become a fashion designer but later on shoes completely took my heart. I place shoe design somewhere between fashion and product design. Shoes need to be both aesthetic and the same time practical and well-made, beautiful objects to fall in love with.

How was your Cordwainers experience?

I really enjoyed studying in Cordwainers. I love the atmosphere and the old building with the history of shoe makers. The college is an excellent place to learn making shoes.

What advice would you give someone wanting to enter the world of footwear/shoe design?

Shoe design is not only about fashion. Designing the shoes that catch the eye is not difficult but designing shoes that fit perfectly, it is completely another thing. I want shoes to be statement not only beautiful objects.

What is your design process or inspiration?

I find my inspiration from photography. I am visiting photography exhibitions weekly, portraitures fascinates me. I have large collection of old family photographs from the beginning of the 1900's.

Who are your favourite designers ?

My favorite fashion designers are Jil Sander, Vivienne Westwood and Rodarte. Shoe designers Pierre Hardy, Christian Louboutin and Camilla Skovgaard.

What can we expect from you in the future?

I want to design shoes that make statement about the ecological values and concentrate to develop the materials such as reindeer leather to women's shoes.

What's your definition of "DreamCatcher"?

A place of happy memories and endless thoughts you can visit in your mind!

Please visit Terhi's website to see stockist and absorb more of her beautiful shoes.

All fotos courtesy of Terhi Pölkki for usage on SheBreathes.com. Photographer Daniel Markusson. Please don't reproduce images or any part of this interview without permission. {c} 2008.