SheBreathes™ | Fashion + Culture

Discover | Miguel Doñate

I tend to wait with emerging designers. I like to see what they're designing aesthetic is before I dig into their collections, and this usually takes two collections. This doesn't always work in my favour, given what the interwebs is, and with so many lurkers, co-opters, need-to-be-first-to-revealers out there, I've been plenty disappointed, when someone reports on a designer I've been sitting on. But, none of this stops me from seeking-out emerging talent, because they're the ones that get me excited about the future of fashion.

After five years, and changes in my fashion taste, I never tire of the truly talented. And sometimes, even in 2011, I discover a designer that makes my heart beat a little faster, like Spanish designer Miguel Doñate, who only has two collections under his belt. I discovered Mr. Doñate at a few months ago, and found myself immediately enamored with the details of his Fall/Winter 2010 collection. But, I wanted to see more. And, boy did he give me more, with his Spring/Summer 2011 collection. If you look closely {click to enlarge} you'll see the intricate details like organza roses on a white silk dupion and chantilly lace dress, or the tailoring on a black light wool and lace coat, or the Swarovski crystal embroidery on another dress — that's damn near orgasmic. His Spring/Summer 2011 collection is filled with perfectly tailored dresses, shorts, coats, and blouses, that scream youthful sophistication. The silhouettes come alive in the details, and place them firmly in that fiercely pretty space, that are the makings of a designer who has a long career ahead of him. Be sure to visit and explore both collections, and keep his name close, because I doubt I'll be the only one singing his praises.

Fotos Courtesy of Miguel Doñate.

Beauitful Things | Persephoni

Persephoni's stainless steal accessories had me swooning from the moment I saw them. From their geometric shaped necklaces, to the metal flaps on their felt socks — I'm smitten with the intertwining of elements. For example, the piece above is bound by acrylic rope to steel blocks, with a magnetic clasp, while the leather gloves below, have stainless steel at the wrist with suede lining, and then there is my favourite the leather and steel handbag with a detachable strap. And, while I'm not sure if any of these are heavy, they sure are pretty to look at.

Fotos Courtesy of Persephoni.

Discover | Masha Ma

LONDON — Shanghai/London-based emerging designer, Masha Ma presented her second collection during London Fashion Week, at Vauxhall, and it was easily one of my favourites. The graduate of Central Saint Martins is fast becoming one to watch in London. And, it's easy to see why, as her A/W 2011 collection was filled with covet-worthy coats, slick leather skirts, and pants that were all begging to be worn.

The collection featured plenty of double cashmere jackets with folded collars, and zippered details in the front — all of which were hand finished. The designer says the A/W 2011 collection was inspired by architect, Frank Gehry's de-constructivist work, and the reconstructing of femininity after post gender-politics. Ms. Ma explored the space between deconstruction and reconstruction — all of which can be seen throughout the collection. Some of my favourite pieces were the structural white blouses and victorian-like turtle necks, where some were paired with form fitting skirts that had front zipper details, paired with knee-high red patent boots. But, what I love most about this collection and Masha Ma, is her ability to make clothes that women can actually wear, and still push past the expected.

Above and below are some looks we snapped during the show, mixed in with and some single shot looks that I adore. Do keep Masha Ma's name near, because this won't be the last you hear of her. I have a feeling she'll be dressing the world soon enough.

Runway Fotos © SheBreathes. Single Looks Courtesy of Masha Ma.

Discover | Fragamentos

Milan-based jewelry label, Fragamentos, by Argentinian-born design duo Julian Pastorino and Cecelia Suarez is a new favourite of mines. Both are graduates of the University of Buenos Aires with a focus in industrial design, which comes through in their designs. Their current collection of bangles and rings, is inspired by the transferring of spontaneous textures into wearable reality, and it only consists of three colours: beige sand, anthracite black, and blueish concrete. The duo let the idea of erupting geysers, folds in an ancient rug, and the dessert wind guide each creation. The smoothness of the pieces comes from manipulating resin to mimic concrete and stone.

Above and below is a look at the collection, so be sure to click for a larger view. And, although their website is still under construction, be sure to keep the link for future indulging.

Fotos Courtesy of Fragmentos.

Discover | Teatum Jones

LONDON — Teatum Jones is an emerging brand by Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones, graduates of Ravensbourne College of Design and Central Saint Martins respectively. During London Fashion Week, I got a closer look at some of the pieces in their A/W 2011/12 collection. From the juxtaposition of masculine structures such as box pleats, cuts of mens yoke shirts, exaggerated dropped shoulders. To the feminity of sheer panels, silk georgette and waist cinching that cling to strong feminine silohuettes — there's something about Teatum Jones that goes deeper than your one-hit wonder label.

Whilst drafting a collection, Catherine writes a film score, whilst Rob composes a film score from music of the time and soundtracks. For their A/W 2011 collection entitled Elsie and Mairi 1914, inspiration was drawn from those women fighting and surviving the First World War. And, by looking at photos of the war taken by famed British photographer Ernest Brooks, the two made the disintegration print. I have to admit when I first saw the print I thought it was of blossoms, but the strong violet tones intrigued me, and added an ambiance of anguish. It was actually photos of ash clouds from dropped warheads printed onto the pieces.

The vein of "utilitarian elegance", and masculinity mixed with femininity, is furthered through the lovely colour palette of bilberry-ink, midnight navy, stone, and winter greys. And, with all the ticks in the right boxes, the vivid conceptuality behind this collection, and the authenticity in each piece — due to their extensive research and passion behind their pieces, proves they're ready for a global audience, and should be added to your list of one's to watch. 

Some images from my visit with the designers below.

LookBook Fotos Courtesy of Teatum Jones. Showroom Fotos © SheBreathes.

Discover The Details | Fannie Schiavoni A/W 2011

NEW YORK — The London Showrooms by the British Fashion Council for A/W 2011 debuted in NYC on Monday at Soho Grand, and I couldn't pass-up the opportunity to see London's newest and brightest up close. One of those was Swedish-born, London-based jewelry designer, Fannie Schiavoni. Her beautiful crystal and chain-metal goodies were on display for all to inhale. There was plenty of her signature cascading body pieces, but what intrigued me most were her crystal pieces, and the scale-like bracelets and gloves. And, while most of these pieces may translate well on a model, one can't get enough of the attention to detail that shines through without one. Her pieces go beyond armour, they're sculptural in shape. And, there is a level of femininity that renders each piece soft.

From the chain-metal tank with shoulder details, to the beautiful neck pieces below, which are like flutters of metal that drape, mold, and fray perfectly to the wearer, making the materials used secondary. It's as if Ms. Schiavoni is gently nudging you to let the pieces free you from your preconceived notions of what tinted titanium and chain-metal represent. Above and below is just a glimpse into her world, do click the images for a larger view of her skills, and visit her space to explore all her collections.

Fotos © SheBreathes.

Made to Wear | Mara Hoffman Fall 2011

NEW YORK — Fashion week has come to pass in New York, and unlike some of my more savvier interweb friends, I am taking my sweet time to share the collections I got to see up close. Mara Hoffman was one of them, and I was pleased that she decided to do another presentation. There were silk and chiffon caftans and floor-length dresses decorated with webbed tassels, embroidery, and woven braids with chunky Peruvian knits, and multi-striped coats for those cold days, — all of which came in bold earthy hues. The collection was assertive with each piece translating well from models to everyday living — which will keep you satisfied from fall to spring.

Fotos © SheBreathes. All Fotos by our in-house Photographer.

Chic Wearables | Michael Sontag A/W 2011/12

BERLIN — Michael Sontag's A/W 2011/12 presentation at Berlin Fashion Week was full of the fluid, over-sized, and wearable. Each piece was presented like a piece of art in an outdoor gallery. It was a great way to see the pieces on their own as well as a group. One of my favourites is a lime-green silk gown, that gathered in the shoulders — the back is just as beautiful as the front. The chunky knits, wide-legged trousers, and rose-pink and black silk dresses are also hits. The colours and shapes throughout the collection feel fresh, and further solidifies his place as the new favourite in Berlin.

Fotos © SheBreathes.

Soft + Chic | Ann Louise Landelius

Sweden-based accessories designer Ann Louise Landelius creates luxuriously soft handmade leather handbags that are individually numbered, and come in cool shapes like, the octagon, crescent, circle, and bucket. All come with solid brass chain handles, but my favourites are the ones with zipper details that run around the edge, offering a new way to open them. I also dig the satin fringe ones. Above and below are the ones on my wishlist, visit here to see and shop the entire collection.

Fotos Courtesy of ALL-Ann Louise Landelius.

The Sculpturess | Joanne Stoker

London-based shoe designer, Joanne Stoker is a graduate of Cordwainers, and was a former architectural model maker, before venturing into the amazing world of shoes. She first caught my attention after she designed the shoes for Michael Van Der Ham's S/S 2010 collection. Stoker's sculptural and glammed-up suede, snakeskin, and patent leather shoes are a breath of fresh air. I love the soft pleats of taupe suede paired with metallic, and the black open-toed snakeskin booties. The entire palette has me swooning, especially the citrus, fuchsia, and turquoise — which will make any outfit pop. And if you're like me and love the details, then study her heel shapes. They're pretty impressive, and beyond the mundane. She's known for their clasp heel, so I expect she'll be giving us new shapes for years to come. Above and below is what I'm loving. Look for follows-ups on this emerging designer's progress, and be sure to visit her space to explore more from the S/S 2011 collection.

Fotos Courtesy of Joanne Stoker.

Discover | Is Not Dead

Paris-based Is Not Dead accolades orginally came from their witty t-shirts, but last summer the trio, {Virginia, Laurence, and Victor} behind this emerging brand presented a full collection of the perfectly tailored. Much of what I love about them and their clothes, is that the first collection has remenants of what Cloak would've been like had they made clothes for women. Ever since Plokhov shuttered Cloak I've been dying to find one brand that could make tailored pieces like them, but for women. And, now I think I may have found such a brand in Is Not Dead. All I need now is some realtime touching. On their website you can see some of the details of a cropped leather jacket paired with a slick bright white unitard, or the beautiful details of a tailored jacket with four buttons running down the cuff. It's all very slick, and a new take on basic silhouettes. As I was clicking through I wanted to reach through the screen, and stroke the skirts, jackets, coats, and trousers. That's how alluring it all is. From the slightly assymetrical mini skirts to the sporty pants, you can see the cuts, which I love. The entire collection underscores their belief that skills and creativity in fashion is not dead — It's alive in the young and hungry.

Fotos Courtesy of Is Not Dead.

Dark Treasures | Nuit N°12

Goth and catacomb themes have been prevalent in the fashion industry for a while now. And, while it's often overdone, and signals the hip set. I'm still relunctant to automatically dismiss those who continue to explore both themes, especially if they're adding their own twist to them. One such emerging brand that creates an entire line of accessories around the dark and lovely is, Nuit N°12 by Ludivine Machinet and Frédéric Baldo. Clicking through their collection is like a visual poem, which indulges in the darker side of art and history. There is plenty to get caught-up on, and plenty that I can leave behind, but the parts I can't — keep me interested. Machinet and Baldo have created a narrative wholly their own, with the mixing of bronze, silver, grey platinum, and pink gold jewelry. Add wood and metal motifs to leather clutches, and you don't need much else to make my heart flutter with excitement. Above and below are a few pieces I wouldn't mind adding to my wishlist. Visit here to explore more of their alluring world of accessories.

Fotos Courtesy of  Nuit N°12.