SheBreathes™ | Fashion + Culture

Vogue Brasil | Black is Beautiful {All Black Issue}

The January 2011 issue of Vogue Brasil is dedicated to "All Black Models", with Emanuela de Paula as the cover model. Apparently they've taken cues from Vogue Italia, which I'm applauding without having my copy in hand yet. As many of you who've been reading SheBreathes know, I've always wondered when this would happen. And I've always given my opinion on "race" and fashion, from a global perspective. I've never been afraid to state how I feel about the issues that continue to plaugue the fashion community. But, understand {to me} this is a far more significant move, considering that Brasil has the largest black population outside of Africa. So, of course to see the media in my country, who've always always peddled Afro-Brasilians to the back, now acknowledge the diversity of Brasilians, especially the women is no small feat. I know Vogue Brasil recently went under a new licensor, so perhaps I owe this change to them. Perhaps now the true diversity of my country will be on display. Hopefully it won't become this novelty, but integrated within the magazine monthly. This is my hope of course, that scouts would stop only scouting in the south of Brasil, and scout the north as well. For now, it seems like all signs are pointing south — South America, Brasil that is, and the diversity within! As soon as I get my hands on a copy, I will be scanning all the images. I've also been in contact with Vogue Brasil, so hopefully this will happen sooner, rather than later, as I'd love to share with you who else is made the issue. I can only hope it's all my favourite Afro-Brasileiras! So, do stay tuned as I wouldn't post about this if i wasn't truly elated! 2011 is starting off nicely, sim!

I'm back with some of the editorial fotos, that was posted on my favourite fashion forum, thefashionspot, which I've been a member of for years {smile}.So far I can confirm that Mani, Gracie, and even Jordan Dunn  and Chanel are in the issue. My mum says there are other models, but she's not good with names. She did ship my copies to me today! She purchased a few for me, so I may give some away on here, to those of you who are inquiring about how to obtain a copy. I'm not that impressed with the editorials thus far, because one looks like it's been ripped from a US Vogue editorial about Bahia, but again it's a start.

Commentary | Race, Size, and Fashion

I've talked about "race" before, but more country specific - my own Brasil. I've applauded Italian Vogue, for their "All Black" issue, because as a woman of colour it was rather groundbreaking, even if it did garner mixed feelings. But what I can't do and won't do is immediately co-sign this new move by Italian Vogue, that has a "Vogue Black" and "Vogue Curvy" section on the Vogue.it website.

I've known about this for some time, let's just say a little birdie told me this was something Sozzani wanted to do. And before anyone dubs my commentary as "hate or "negative" please know, I have as much vested in Italy as I do in the US and Brasil. I often travel to Italy for work, I'm fluent in Italian, and I'm a huge fan of Vogue Italia. But none of this trumps this feeling that it's not the type of progression I had hoped for, since the "All Black" issue. 

Now, is it all wrong? No. Black women and curvy women deserve to be highlighted and shown in a three dimensional manner by mainstream magazines. But how exactly is sectioning off integrating? And I wonder what people would've said had this been done to all the Vogue websites? What does this say to us as a whole? If we allow it, will it become the norm? Will it be normal to have "special" sections for every group that doesn't make it onto Vogue.it or Vogue.com's main page? Is this truly "in the right direction" as I've heard some say? And the right direction for who? The questions are endless as are the concerns, and I'm not the only one who has them.

Commentary: Fashion {Mags + Blogs}

Since I have been a champion of Elle Accessories, I thought a proper goodbye was in order. A friend of mines says it's shuttered and another says it's on suspension for one year. I haven't bothered to confirm the latter, because I actually thought it would serve better as a website than a magazine. Although I'm still a fan {accessories girl to the hilt!} I did notice after a few issues the redundancies. Hey it happens, yes even to magazines. Luckily for me I saved all the issues that I received for free {hehe} and look forward to seeing what they do with it in the future. Below is one of the editorials I liked from the Fall 08 issue. Styled by Anna Levak. ---->{Click below to read more}

  

 

Vogue Brasil: Commentary

I picked-up on this via my favourite blog Jezebel. I guess Vogue Brasil didn't get the memo from Vogue Italia. While the models on the cover are beautiful Brasileiras -- no Gracie? No Emanuela? No Carmelita? Ohh Vogue Brasil {hehe} you slay me. Thankfully there are many of us diligently working to fill the voids and the ball dropping done daily. Brasil is filled to the brim with every hue imaginable, despite it not being reflected in the media. Clearly the "new wave" of Brasilian models doesn't include the aforementioned who are working on major campaigns and on runways from Paris to New York. I would sigh but this is pure motivation to continue to change the things I don't like - so no digressing just commentary.

Foto via Models.com

Beijinhos.

São Paulo Fashion Week: Commentary

My cousin Milly, who is a journalist (and comments from time to time) is currently in our home country Brasil (she resides in Australia) covering São Paulo Fashion Week. She called me to discuss something she found disheartening - the lack of Afro-Brasileiras on the runway in São Paulo. It's like a complete lack of "colour" if you will, in a country that's full of every shade imaginable. So when I see these shows, I expect in my home country to see women and men on the runways who look like me, because it's more than half of the population in Brasil. Sadly it's not reflected on the runways or in the magazines, and it's been this way for far too long. Now, the mainstream media has picked-up on it, because it's been a topic of discussion for other fashion weeks in the US and Europe. As I'm sure we all know this lack of diversity is a real problem, and no country that hosts these fashion shows are immune, but there needs to be change.

Milly, also noted to me how when she was covering Rio's Fashion Week, she saw much more of "Brasil", but was sadden by the lack of the real Brasil in São Paulo. I must say it saddens me too, but this has been going on for a while now, that I feel compelled to speak. I don't understand why there is a lack of diversity on the runways, in the ads, etc when report after report show that ethnic women have buying power, that we like fashion just like anyone else. It makes my head hurt, so much so that I purposely look for magazines that embrace rather than turn from this diverse and global world. And this reason of "black" models not being tall enough, beautiful enough etc is such an insult to my intelligence, and to women of colour around the world. It's really nothing more than an excuse, sadly it's the only answer that those who run these shows give - but it says nothing; it only proves that many in the fashion industry would prefer to ignore and pretend that there is no issue at all - and of course cite designer vision.

There other thing that sort of bugs me, is I read so much about Brasil and race, it's often hard for me to keep my tongue, because a lot of what's written is assumptions, not facts. But I'm also forgiving, and wherever I see fit, I try to educate and explain the issues with Brasil and race.  The truth is what's happening at São Paulo Fashion Week is what's happening in Brasilian society, and has been happening for years. Brasil is a classist society, and very few people understand how that can be worst when it comes to race. There is a definite vein of racism in Brasil, I would never deny that, but it's often intertwined with class. Then there is this huge complex, when it comes to slavery in Brasil, it's definitely all about access, and the denial of that access for some. I think it will continue to take time to change things in Brasil, but here is the kicker the average Brasilian really just wants to be called Brasilian - many don't care about the labels, and I think this is the hardest thing for many to grasp, or even understand, because we have over a 100 names for the colour of ones skin. But I always ask people to see just how this helps in understanding "race" in Brasil. A lot of people misconstrue this as a denial of our heritage, but even that doesn't stand, because Brasilian culture is heavily African influenced, from the music to the food. Being a Baiana there was just no disconnect with my African heritage, it was always a topic of discussion and being taught. My family traced our linage back to the days of slavery, and beyond. So I don't buy that we're denying, because it's part of every day life, it's the very fiber of what makes Brasil so diverse. My own family is a smörgåsbord of hues and shades, and this can be said of many in Brasil, so yeah it's frustrating to not see that reflected in fashion and the media.

Here is an article done by the BBC on this entire issue, have a read, it was more fuel for our discussion.

I plan on adding more culture to my "Discover Brasil" section, because it's important to me that people get to see just how diverse Brasil is. So while I'm home for Carnaval I plan on taking loads of fotos, and video, and sharing it.

Lastly, this is an appropriate topic, because tomorrow is Martin Luther King Jr's official holiday - perfect timing to reflect on exactly where we are as a global society. And while I'm at it Happy MLK Day to all - let's be the change we want to see!

Beijos.