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São Paulo Fashion Week: Commentary
My cousin Milly, who is a journalist (and comments from time to time) is currently in our home country Brasil (she resides in Australia) covering São Paulo Fashion Week. She called me to discuss something she found disheartening - the lack of Afro-Brasileiras on the runway in São Paulo. It's like a complete lack of "colour" if you will, in a country that's full of every shade imaginable. So when I see these shows, I expect in my home country to see women and men on the runways who look like me, because it's more than half of the population in Brasil. Sadly it's not reflected on the runways or in the magazines, and it's been this way for far too long. Now, the mainstream media has picked-up on it, because it's been a topic of discussion for other fashion weeks in the US and Europe. As I'm sure we all know this lack of diversity is a real problem, and no country that hosts these fashion shows are immune, but there needs to be change.
Milly, also noted to me how when she was covering Rio's Fashion Week, she saw much more of "Brasil", but was sadden by the lack of the real Brasil in São Paulo. I must say it saddens me too, but this has been going on for a while now, that I feel compelled to speak. I don't understand why there is a lack of diversity on the runways, in the ads, etc when report after report show that ethnic women have buying power, that we like fashion just like anyone else. It makes my head hurt, so much so that I purposely look for magazines that embrace rather than turn from this diverse and global world. And this reason of "black" models not being tall enough, beautiful enough etc is such an insult to my intelligence, and to women of colour around the world. It's really nothing more than an excuse, sadly it's the only answer that those who run these shows give - but it says nothing; it only proves that many in the fashion industry would prefer to ignore and pretend that there is no issue at all - and of course cite designer vision.
There other thing that sort of bugs me, is I read so much about Brasil and race, it's often hard for me to keep my tongue, because a lot of what's written is assumptions, not facts. But I'm also forgiving, and wherever I see fit, I try to educate and explain the issues with Brasil and race. The truth is what's happening at São Paulo Fashion Week is what's happening in Brasilian society, and has been happening for years. Brasil is a classist society, and very few people understand how that can be worst when it comes to race. There is a definite vein of racism in Brasil, I would never deny that, but it's often intertwined with class. Then there is this huge complex, when it comes to slavery in Brasil, it's definitely all about access, and the denial of that access for some. I think it will continue to take time to change things in Brasil, but here is the kicker the average Brasilian really just wants to be called Brasilian - many don't care about the labels, and I think this is the hardest thing for many to grasp, or even understand, because we have over a 100 names for the colour of ones skin. But I always ask people to see just how this helps in understanding "race" in Brasil. A lot of people misconstrue this as a denial of our heritage, but even that doesn't stand, because Brasilian culture is heavily African influenced, from the music to the food. Being a Baiana there was just no disconnect with my African heritage, it was always a topic of discussion and being taught. My family traced our linage back to the days of slavery, and beyond. So I don't buy that we're denying, because it's part of every day life, it's the very fiber of what makes Brasil so diverse. My own family is a smörgåsbord of hues and shades, and this can be said of many in Brasil, so yeah it's frustrating to not see that reflected in fashion and the media.
Here is an article done by the BBC on this entire issue, have a read, it was more fuel for our discussion.
I plan on adding more culture to my "Discover Brasil" section, because it's important to me that people get to see just how diverse Brasil is. So while I'm home for Carnaval I plan on taking loads of fotos, and video, and sharing it.
Lastly, this is an appropriate topic, because tomorrow is Martin Luther King Jr's official holiday - perfect timing to reflect on exactly where we are as a global society. And while I'm at it Happy MLK Day to all - let's be the change we want to see!
Beijos.
Posted by DS De Carvalho on January 20, 2008 in Commentary, Culture, Discover Brasil, Fashion | Permalink
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