After featuring a few looks from shoe designer Martha Davis' S/S 09 collection, I knew she had to be added to the DreamCatcher Series. Not only is Ms. Davis creating drool-worthy shoes, she also brings years of experience from her industrial design background into each of her collections. So, it's with pleasure that I introduce you to Martha Davis, a designer who should be in your closet.
Ms. Davis could you please tell us a little about your background?
I have a BA in Sculpture, but got a job as an industrial designer right out of school. I'm kind of an artist/engineer geek — I love the combination of form and utility. I worked for a few design offices, then started my own firm in NYC, after three years. My clients spanned a wide range of industries, from cosmetic to furniture/lighting, electronics, and medical. I spent a fair amount of time in the operating room, working on endoscopic surgical devices. One of my more commercial designs is the Dialpak for J&J — a fascinating, ten year project that has saved billions of pounds of plastic, and made birth control accessible to millions of women {for more information click here}.
What is your design process?
What ever I am designing, I start with a lot of research to learn how it works, how its made, who uses it, where, and why. I also try to understand what's going on in the marketplace, what's interesting, and where the opportunity is. I look at materials and manufacturing processes — peripheral industries can be really interesting too. There is not a huge amount of innovation in the footwear industry so bringing in ideas from other places is important. After I get an idea of what I want to do, I sketch and make models. I learned to make paper patterns and models at Ars Sutoria and think it is super important. Once I narrow the ideas down, I use the computer to refine and visualize views, manipulate shapes, and apply colors.
The last step is prototyping and material selection, which I do with my factory in Venice. They have been making shoes for centuries and are astounding craftsmen. I learn endlessly from them and I'm constantly asking them to break the rules.
What kind of woman wears Martha Davis shoes?
Women that are confident and independent thinkers, love design, value quality and originality. What inspires you? Design that is so simple its clear there is no other way. Like a two penny nail or a canoe, or a pea pod — perfect.
Do you have any favourite designers?
This is a huge mashup: Achille Castiglione, Maison Martin Margiela, Luis Barragán, Deiter Rams, Vivienne Westwood, Noguchi, Neutra, Rei Kawakubo, Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, Maria Cornejo, Anne Demeulemeester, Harry Bertoia.
What's your advice for those who wish to become a shoe designer?
To design anything I think there's one basic principle — learn how it's made and used so you know how you can change it. I also believe that it's really important to learn how to draw.
What can we expect from Martha Davis in the future?
I saw a big problem finding cool, wearable shoes and now a problem finding bags and jackets to go with them. Maybe something to do with unusual jewelry at some point too.
Besides your beautiful shoes, what else are you passionate about?
My son and his music. Art, gardens, and hardware.
Do you have a favourite shoe from either the Spring/Summer or Fall/Winter 09 collection?
I wear the open toe booties from the Spring/Summer collection every single day, in every color. It is amazingly comfortable and warm. I live in San Francisco and it's freezing in the summer. I also love the booties and strappy heels from the Fall/Winter collection. I wear them with socks.
Your favourite place to shop and your favourite city to spend a day in?
Metier and Harputs Market in San Francisco, Chinatown and Ted Meuling in NY, Orlandi in Milan, Vinçon in Barcelona, and any hardware store in the world. It's hard to pick one city, but I would have to say Rome, Tokyo and Buenos Aires.
What's your definition of a "DreamCatcher"?
I feel really strongly that if you have a passion, you need to follow it in whatever way or capacity possible. Sometimes the hardest part is finding it, but when you do, you will be successful because it is the real you. I feel incredibly privileged to be able to follow my dream. It took a lot of work and guts to do it.
All looks above are from Martha Davis' F/W 09 collection. Martha Davis is available at Metier in San Francisco, and online at Shopbop. Visit Martha Davis for complete stockist and to explore all her collections.
All fotos Courtesy of Martha Davis for usage on SheBreathes.
